La Paz| Sea lions area

At first glance La Paz is a sprawling, slight- ly dingy city, but after an hour or so you’ll discover there’s a lot more to it. Laid-back, old-world beauty can be found on a stroll along the waterfront malecón or in the older architecture around the Plaza Constitución; chichi restaurants, cafes and bars cunningly hide in between the cracks. It’s a surprisingly international town – you’re as likely to hear French, Portuguese or Italian here as English or Spanish, and yet paradoxically it’s the most ‘Mexican’ city in all of Baja. Its quirky history includes American occupation and even be- ing temporarily declared its own republic.

All in all, it’s a great place to meander, and you can shop uninterrupted by touts’ invita- tions as you blend in to the urban vibe. The city makes a good base for day trips to Es- píritu Santo, Cabo Pulmo and Todos Santos.

The Espíritu Santo ISLaND Infrint if La Psx is a treasure trove of shallow azure inlets and sorbet-pink cliffs, Espíritu Santo is one of La Paz’s gems. It’s part of a Unesco World Herit- age site comprising 244 Sea of Cortez islands and coastal areas, and is a worthy day trip. A number of operators run activities here, including kayaking and snorkeling.

What I am going

• Tour Espiritu Santo

• Kayaking
• Lobsters dinners

Where I am sleeping

Pension Baja Paradise. Spotless, with comfy modern beds, reliably hot showers and cold air-conditioning plus touches of art and driftwood all around, this Mexi- can-Japanese-run place is a lovely place to stay. There’s a kitchen and a coin laundry for guest use and it’s near lots of great places to eat. The only downfall is the loud music from a local bar some nights, so bring earplugs!

Where I am eating

Organic Market. This small or- ganic market is fun for a browse around and sells all kinds of locally produced gourmet goodies, as well as local cheeses, homemade cakes and bread.

Taco Fish La Paz. Largely undiscovered by tourists, locals have been coming here in droves since 1992. Ex- pect pristine stainless-steel surfaces and the best fish tacos in town. The extra battered, crispy fish style is reminiscent of an out- standing British fish and chips. The ceviche is off the charts as well.

Bismarkcito. This seafront restaurant, fronted by its own taco stand, is always packed with locals here for the superb sea- food. Consider ordering the lobster chow- der. TVs, exposed brick walls and jaunty blue-and-white table linen decorate the huge dining room. Service can be slow, but who’s in a hurry?