Clustered around a striking plaza and with a center packed full of brightly painted colonial houses, El Fuerte oozes historic character. For many centuries the most important commercial center in north- western Mexico due to its proximity to the silver mines in the canyons, this is now a picturesque little town surrounded by one of Latin America’s last-standing dry tropi- cal forests.
Far preferable to Los Mochis as a place to start or end a trip on the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico, it’s worth a stay of more than just a night to take a trip on the Río Fuerte and explore the unique sub- tropical countryside.
El Fuerte was founded in 1564, and is named for a 17th-century fort built on its distinctive high point of Cerro de las Pilas to protect settlers from indigenous attacks.
What I am doing
- Visit Bosque Secreto
- Kayaking Río Fuerte
- Boat trips along the river, taking in some 2000-year-old petroglyph
Where I am sleeping
Posada del Hidalgo. This highly atmospheric hotel inside a rusty red coloni- al hacienda offers bundles of classic charm with spacious, elegant rooms grouped around shady garden courtyards and jaw-dropping public areas. There’s a beautiful open-air restaurant, a pool, a massage room and a popular bar for socializing. Hummingbirds join guests for breakfast.
Where I am eating
El Mesón del General. A traditional, formal restau- rant that specializes in fish and seafood, with several styles of pulpo (octopus) and combo plates of various river delicacies. You’ll find it on El Fuerte’s main drag, an oasis from the bustle of the nearby market.
El Chepe 