The Copper Canyon’s main tourism centre, Creel is actually no more than a lowkey highland town strung out along the rail- way line. It’s a very likable place, surrounded by pine forests and interesting rock formations and it boasts several good hotels and restaurants.
The Tarahumara, in their multihued dress, are commonly seen about town, and there’s a consistent tourist presence here, mainly in the form of tour groups.
The area around Creel is rich in natural wonders, from waterfalls and hot springs to surreal rock formations and expansive parklands, all perfect for a day’s hike, ride or drive. Local guides offer various tours, or you can go solo on a rented bicycle, scooter or 4WD.
Creel can be very cold in winter, even snowy, and it’s none too warm at night in autumn either. In summer, the alpine air is a welcome relief from Mexico’s coastal lowland and desert heat.
What I am doing
- Rent a scooter and reach the bottom of the Copper Canyon with my own wheels.
- Ride a bicycle until Rekowata hot springs.
- Visit Cusárare village and waterfall, Lago Arareko and the Valley of the Frogs and Mushrooms.
- Cascada de Basaseachi
- Visit Tarahumara community
Where I am Sleeping
La Troje de Adobe inn. Reminiscent of a Swiss ski lodge, this three-story inn has just seven rooms. All have a upscale boho feel, with Tarahumara designs woven throughout, handcrafted furnishings and slate tile bathrooms. Several of the rooms have mountain views too. The affable owners – one a retired anthropologist – have excellent recommendations on area sights and guides.
La Troje de Adobe Cafe downstairs is a homey cafe serves up all manner of coffee drinks, Italian so- das and milkshakes to local intellectuals and visiting hipsters. Desserts and savory snacks, made with organic and local ingredients, also offered.
Where I am eating
La Cabaña. This Catalan-owned restaurant is one of the fancier places in town. As well as good breakfasts (M$60 to M$100), La Cabaña does a mean tampiqueña (steak accompanied by several side orders), not to mention tasty salads, grills and changing daily specials such as lo- cal trout stuffed with shrimp.
El Chepe 