Chihuahua, capital of Mexico’s biggest state, is a quirky but pleasant combination of norteño character, revolutionary history and bohemian hangouts.
I am here because Many for an overnight stop before riding the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico, but Chihuahua is worth more of your time. The city centre combines grand colonial buildings, several beautiful plazas, pedestrianised lanes and a healthy crop of restaurants, cafes and bars. Its museums bear witness to the key episodes of Mexi- can history that unfolded here. In short, it’s an intriguing city with a strong sense of identity.
Founded in 1709, Chihuahua soon became the key city of the Nueva España’s Provincias Internas (stretching from California to Texas and Sinaloa to Coahuila). The Spanish brought pro-independence rebels, includ- ing Miguel Hidalgo, to be condemned and shot here in 1811. The Porfirio Díaz regime brought railways and helped consolidate the wealth of the area’s huge cattle fiefdoms. Luis Terrazas, one-time Chihuahua state governor, held lands nearly the size of Belgium: ‘I am not from Chihuahua, Chihuahua is mine,’ he once said.
After Pancho Villa’s forces took Chihuahua in 1913 during the Mexican Revolution, Villa established his headquarters here, arranged various civic projects and soon acquired the status of local hero. Today the city has one of Mexico’s highest living standards, with maquiladora (parts factory) jobs contributing significantly to this.
What I am doing
- Visit Casa Chihuahua
- Chihuahua Barbaro tour including the Pancho Villa museum and Quinta Gameros.
- Grutas de Nombre de Dios
Where I am sleeping
Hotel Jardín del Centro Offering fine value, this pleasant, inviting little hotel has cozy, attractive rooms around a pretty plant-filled courtyard, plus a good little restaurant. The doubles with high ceilings at the front are atmosferiche. Staff are sweet and its location is conveniently close to the center.
Where I am eating
La Casa de los Milagros. Legend has it that Pancho Villa and his pals hung out in this atmospheric 110-year- old mansion featuring tiled floors, lots of snug little rooms and an airy covered court-yard. The menu is enormous and features typical Mexican dishes, all humorously renamed. There’s live music starting at 8pm.
El Chepe 