Durango, capital of the eponymous desert state, is an immensely likable place, with an attractive, beautifully kept and laid-back city center and a friendly local populace. It is also one of Mexico’s most isolated cities: you have to travel hours through the desert or the Sierra Madre mountains from here before you hit another significant settlement. Yet isolation has fostered unique regional traits, such as the distinctive local cuisine and wry humor.
Founded in 1563, Durango’s early impor- tance was due to nearby iron-ore deposits, along with gold and silver from the Sierra Madre. Today hundreds of maquiladoras (assembly plants) dominate the economy. For visitors, the city’s striking colonial center commands attention with over 70 historic buildings and several fascinating museums, while good accommodations and restaurants are plentiful.
What I am doing
- Visite the Museo Francisco Villa.Housed in a spectacular colonial mansion, this well-conceived museum pays deep homage to the Mexican revolutionary hero Pancho Villa.
- See the Alacraneo, a blacklightlit tank with over 5000 scorpions.
- Visit Paseo del Viejo Oeste Film location. Many of the big- screen cowboys have swaggered through this film set. Today the set is a souvenir-drenched.
- Hiking a la Zona del Silencio
Where I am Sleeping
La casa de Bruno. An artsy, welcoming place, this down- town hostel has three dorms, all with tall bunks that have thick mattresses, cozy bedding and privacy curtains. Two tiny private rooms are set apart from the dorms, but follow suit in comfort. There’s a small common kitchen and coffee and pastries are offered each morning. A great place to meet other travelers and organise a tour at the Zo a del Silencio desert.
Where I am eating
Birriería Mendoza. An- tiques Roadshow meets colonial Mexico in this quirky restaurant. Here, birria (goat stew, typical of Jalisco) gets Duranguense twists by incorporating guajillo and pasil- la chilies or substituting lamb chops and ribs. Tables themselves are set in a colonial building decorated with loads of antiques like old radios, milk jugs and grandfather clocks. A memorable stop for my belly and eyes.
El Chepe 