Mexico City is, and has always been, the sun in the Mexican solar system. Though much-maligned in the past, these days the city is cleaning up its act. Revamped public spaces are springing back to life, the culinary scene is exploding and a cultural renaissance is flourishing. On top of all that, by largely managing to distance itself from the drug war, the nation’s capital remains a safe haven of sorts. Far from shak- ing off visitors, the earthquakes of 2017 revealed a young society who attracted admiration through their solidarity.
A stroll through the buzzing downtown area reveals the capital’s storied history, from pre-Hispanic and colonial-era splendor to its contemporary edge. This high-octane meg- alopolis contains plenty of escape valves in the way of old- school cantinas, intriguing museums and inspired dining.
What I am doing
- Standing in the Zócalo once the centre of the Aztec universe..
- Explore the pre-Hispanic ruins at Templo Mayor.
- Admire Diego Rivera’s cinematic murals at Palacio Nacional.
- Reach the Torre Latinoamericana skyscraper. To get a feel for just how far Mexico City’s concave valley spans, take in the view from the observation deck.
- Delve into Mexico’s past at Museo Nacional de Antropologia and Castillo de Chapultepec.
- Come nightfall, do tequila shots over mariachi music at Plaza.
- Shopping at La Ciudadela, a large crafts market with decent prices and great variety.
- Drop by Tío Pepe one of the city’s oldest cantinas, for a beer or tequila.
- Listen jazz at the best in Mecico: the Zinco Jazz Club.
Where I am sleeping
Casa San Ildefonso. A 19th-century building that most recently served as a storage facility for street vendors has been transformed into a cheerful hostel off a pedestrian thor- oughfare. Unlike most downtown hostels, the high-ceiling dorms, private rooms and common areas here get wonderful sunlight. Guests have breakfast in a tranquil court-yard with a fountain, singing canaries and the gremlin-esque mascot Delfina. I have a tiny single room for M$330.
Where I am eating
Los Cocuyos. Suadero (beef ) tacos abound in the capital, but this place reigns supreme. Follow your nose to the bubbling vat of meats and go for the artery-choking campechano (mixed beef and sausage taco). For the more adventurous eater, there are ojo (eye) or lengua (tongue) tacos; for veg- etarians, there are nopales.
Mercado San Camilito. This block-long building contains more than 70 kitchens preparing, among other items, Jalisco-style pozole (a broth brimming with hominy kernels and pork) served with garnishes such as radish and oregano – specify maciza (meat) if pig noses and ears fail to excite you.
Hostería de Santo Domingo. Whipping up classic Mexican fare since 1860, Mexico City’s oldest restaurant has a festive atmosphere, enhanced by live piano music. The menu offers numerous dishes, but everyone comes here for the chile en nogada (an enormous poblano chili pepper stuffed with ground meat, dried fruit and bathed in a creamy walnut sauce). Beware: rumor has it the building is haunted.
El Chepe 